It lives!

I've been busy with all the high voltage cables and control contactors etc, also the dc to dc converter that powers all the normal 12 volt car system by converting the main battery pack down to 12volts.
I managed to connect the original electronic throttle to the Soliton controller along with all the other inputs it requires.
After a little thought, mainly being about the cost of lithium batteries, I decided to get hold of some cheap lead acid batteries to test the car with, just to prove to myself everything will work OK and also correct any problems I may encounter, then I'll take the plunge with the lithium and will be able to concentrate on looking after the batteries.
luckily I found 12, Yuasa 90ah second hand batteries on eBay in what appears to be good condition.
I finished installing the batteries and cables Saturday morning to give me 144 volts nominal.
 I jacked the drive wheels off the floor for safety just in case it turned into a run away, I then connected my laptop to the soliton controller, powered up and input the basic settings,

The fuse and safety contactor on the front battery pack

 DC to DC converter and high voltage cables to controller

 Front of car without headlights and grill etc  

Rear battery box showing fuse  + and - safety contactors

Rear battery box lid removed

clear plastic cover over fuse and contactors

 
Lockable Emergency stop installed just above ignition switch controls 12volt + and -  to coils on battery pack contactors.

The big moment?
Main battery pack contactors on, Ignition on, second gear selected, foot on accelerator,
BIG SMILE it works, the wheels are turning.
I spent the rest of Saturday and Sunday driving up and down the lane to my house with a big grin.

Lots more to do to make it road legal then MOT.
Then the lithium battery pack.

Finally I have my soliton 1 controller, I hope it will perform as well as it looks.

I've made a frame work with some aluminium box section to mount the controller.

I managed to construct the battery box in the back seat area, I just need to get some batteries to fill it but Im still not sure which way to go with the battery pack. eg, 100 AH cells for about 192v or go lower voltage with higher AH cells, its all about physical size of cells and the room available.

Ignore the piece of wood I will be comiing up with a lid keeper upper.

The other milestone I managed was to install the charger plug in the fuel filler cap, this was a big smile moment, I wonder if I will ever use it? (I WILL) 

I am now getting to the part where it all starts to come together,

I hope! thats the wiring of the contoller etc.

Motor now installed in car, fabricated bracket so motor would hang off of existing engine mounts.

When I finally got the motor installed I could not resist jacking wheels off floor and trying the motor with a 12 volt battery, Wow, it works even in reverse, so far so good.

I have fitted a vacuum pump for the brakes along with a small vacuum tank, controlled by a switch to maintain correct negative pressure.
This system replaces the vacuum created by the original ICE for the brake servo assist.
Also to the left of the vacuum tank you can see the electric power steering pump I've plumbed in to replace the pump normally driven by the ICE

Since fitting the motor into the TT I have selected and ordered a soliton 1 controller, this is probably big time over kill for the performance I require but its probably the best all round DC controller out there, rated up to 340v and a 1000 amps and programable from most PC's.
Gives me lots of options.

Batteries are my main concern in ths conversion, I want a minmum of 50 miles range with performance comparable to an average car,but not the original tt performance.
After reading much about battery types I've come to accept that lithium is the way to go, although very exspensive they are less than half the weight with more power than lead acid. I have seen many EV conversions on varrious websites etc that have used lead acid battery packs and have had poor range / performance.

After some thought I decided the best place for the batteries, or at least most of the batteries is where the rear seat is, as it is actually not usable just like most sports cars, also this position is reasonably centred between the front and rear wheels to spread the load and hopfully avoid that overloaded look when all the weight is at one end or the other.

Decided not to cut the floor out as in this position theres a lot of structural fabrication and could compromise the strength of the car, so I created a flat surface using aluminium box section, to which I plan to fit a suitibly sized box 1000mm x 550mm x 300mm high. this will give me maximum available space in this area.
Hopfully I will create a removable lid and upholster to blend with the TT's interior, thats the plan anyway.
Having a gym at the end of your garden has its uses, I decided to simulate the battery weight to see how the car will sit loaded up, the total weight of batteries will be roughly 230kg so that means around 160kg will sit where the rear seat is and the remainder either at the front or the rear so this is what I did.

 The TT looked fine with the weight in this position but when I put the remaining 70kg in the rear the TT looked low at the back or, um? high at the front.
 It became plain to see, the remaining 70kg had to go at the front not the rear, that meant constructing a battery box in front of the motor under the bonnet, this was a pain to achieve the space where I wanted it but I got there in the end using 20mm steel box section and 2mm aluminium plate. See below,

My next phase will be installing controller and sourcing battery pack.

Motor delivered in one piece all the way from Bulgaria, Kostov 11" 192 volt

Adaptor plate made, cut by hand with a hacksaw! 4.000" hole bored to suit motor spigot. Holes drilled to pick up motor and gearbox fixin holes. No clutch in this conversion hopfully will only need a maximum of 2 gears, maybe 1. Clutchless gear change should be easy without engine compression.

Spent an afternoon at work in my own time borrowing a lathe to make adaptor coupling to join motor shaft to gearbox input shaft, I used middle part of original clutch and an off the self taperlock as per photos, quite pleased with coupling as have not used a lathe for about 15 years.

Clocked adaptor plate to gearbox input shaft untill running spot on true within 0.0005" doweled in 3 places.

Finally connected motor to gearbox ready to install into car.

Offered up drive shaft to see if there was clearance between motor outer case and drive shaft cv joint, as you can see only just, but only just is all I need (result) 

It's been a while but I've been busy

All or should I say nearly all the parts not required are now removed from car never to be refitted. It's nice to take stuff apart and not have to put it back together. Here's some of the bits removed it's a total of just under 350kg so I've created some room for all that battery weight.

 Engine plus lots of bits and pieces,loads of pipes

 

 Petrol tank

 Radiator + aircon rad

 Haldex rear drive and diff

Rear seats (battery space)

                                          

 Intercoolers

Car purchase price £2000 with camshaft snapped (non runner) parts not required now sold on ebay £1000 in total. Next stage, Motor and controller selection, purchase and then adaptor plate and coupling desgin/manufacture to marry up motor to gearbox.

THE PLAN, AUDI TT ELECTRIC CONVERSION

Ok here we go, I have purchased Audi TT with blown cylinder head,my plan is to remove petrol engine and all related components and install electric drive system. This is by no means a first as there is a large EV community out there, all you need to do is look on the Internet, there are many websites and individuals who are usually very willing and helpful with advice etc. I have spent the last 3 months researching the subject and have now taken the plunge, first job is to remove engine etc etc! Will post photos when this stage is completed.